Katherine Macdonald on Crafting Sustainable Luxury at Wide Open World

Haha good question….how long have you got! A fashion designer brings an original idea to life, using technical skills, creativity and intuition. It's an emotional process and I love it.

I orchestrate every facet of the design process, which often takes several months to go from a sketched idea to final production. Immersed in research and experimentation, I glean insights into styles, techniques, colours, and fabrics, culminating in prototypes that bring all elements of design together. Another vital aspect is the creation of detailed technical instructions to support artisans in creating perfect and consistent garments which align with the original design vision.

I would say building relationships with factories. They are crucial in helping turn ideas into reality, so it's important to gain their trust. Working together in an open and quality focused manner gives you so much more than your own original ideas; I always listen to their advice so we can craft special pieces of clothing that deliver the right look and feel we seek.

Honesty and respect go a long way when you want to collaborate, it is a bit like an orchestra where everyone has their part to play in creating the perfect piece of music.

Knitwear is all about tactility; It is about how clothing feels as much as how it looks. Emotional connection is intrinsic in Wide Open World's values so I put it at the heart of my design process. My inspiration always flows better when working with physical products and fibres. Touching, seeing, feeling exceptional pieces of clothing. So I ventured beyond the studio, engaging with people and observing how they interact with their clothes. It’s hugely insightful! We also tried many clothes to understand what makes some feel better than others. Illuminating work.

Collaboration. It's like a symphony of minds. I particularly enjoyed working with Olivier and Amandine, seeing their passion to do something different, to challenge the status quo. Their determination to change the way the industry works is both encouraging and inspiring. Talking of doing things differently, I loved the challenge of designing the branding motif. Because of the brand ethos and their desire to avoid plastics, I experimented with a knitting technique which allows the label to be integral to the knit. After a few iterations, we reached the eureka moment. You know, when you have achieved something new, and it feels just right. 

Yes, definitely, I used to think it was all about natural materials, but it’s so much more complex than that. It’s about understanding the impact of what you are doing at every step of the product life cycle and seeking better ways to do things with the environment in mind. Sustainability has become difficult to achieve because of how the whole industry has evolved. But it can be done. I also think, as a designer, it’s about asking questions and having a reason to do what you are doing, having purpose. Is this relevant? Who would benefit from this product? What do people desire from the product? The desire to design in a conscientious way never ends. There is always more we can do.

Nothing lasts forever, but where knitwear is concerned, the choice of materials and techniques can prolong the life of garments. For example, merino wool has long fibres, which makes it naturally strong and less likely to bobble (or pill, to use the technical term).

I also used a technique called ‘fully fashioning’ which delivers structure for a better fit on the body. And the tension of the fibres is crucial to achieve the right balance between comfort and strength.

The experience and attention to detail from the factory play an important part too. The quality of the seams, how they are joined, all contribute to the longevity of the garments, as well as how they feel on you. There is a lot more than what people might think when you want to create top of the range clothing.

It is worth it and rewarding when you see people instantly feel good in clothes you helped bring to life.