Introduction
Buying high-quality knitwear can be a daunting task, but fear not, with the right knowledge, you can make informed decisions that ensure both style and quality to elevate your wardrobe.
In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the world of fine knitwear, exploring its core attributes, and why it's the top choice for discerning consumers. From the intricate details of fibre selection to the meticulous craftsmanship behind each stitch, this guide equips you with the insights needed to secure high-quality, stylish knitwear that surpasses expectation and more importantly, knitwear you’ll be proud to wear.
The Importance of Choosing the Right Fibre
In the world of knitwear, the choice of fibre is paramount. It influences everything from feel and durability to style and sustainability. Here's why getting the base material right is crucial:
Avoid synthetics and opt for natural fibres
Synthetic fibres like acrylic, nylon, and polyester fall short when it comes to satisfying discerning buyers. Not only do they lack the refined elegance of natural fibres, but they also are a world-wide environmental problem and offer inferior comfort. On the other hand, natural fibres like merino wool and cashmere provide unmatched timeless elegance. To illustrate, wool’s ability to absorb and release moisture vapour is 30 times as much as polyester, for example. Staying fresh and at the top of your game all day relies on garments that work with you, not against you.
Merino vs Cashmere
Fine knitwear often comes down to choosing between Merino and Cashmere. Merino wool comes from merino sheep, an ancient breed of sheep that originates from Spain. Cashmere comes from cashmere goats who originate from the Himalayan region of Kashmir. While both offer softness and comfort, they differ in loft, warmth, and durability.
Softness and Comfort
Both fibres can be soft and both can feel dry and even prickly to the touch. Softness is determined by the diameter of the fibres used. The finer, the softer, and the more expensive. Because cashmere has a higher loft (meaning it has more air trapped in its fibres), it feels lighter than merino and is much warmer. The loft is the feeling people associate with cashmere, but it can be a problem for people who overheat easily.
Merino wool presents a compelling alternative. It can feel as soft as cashmere, without the loft, and provide better all-day comfort thanks to its temperature regulation properties, ideal for layering. So much so that you can enjoy wearing a fine merino sweater next-to-skin in summer and the same in close to freezing temperatures.
As for softness, if you can get your hand on superfine Merino wool like our single origin Tasmanian superfine Merino, you have a winner. It boasts a delicate balance of solid softness and strength, making it ideal for crafting exquisite knitwear that stands the test of time. From its superior thermal properties to its resistance to pilling, Merino wool reigns supreme in the realm of natural fibres. It is no surprise that the best suits in the world are made with it.
A word of caution: some brands incorrectly specify the grades of fibre they use, either as a marketing twist or a genuine mistake. Superfine merino wool shall be between 16.6 and 18.5 microns. There is a world of difference between 18 microns and 20 microns. The naked eye wouldn’t see it, but your skin would instantly prefer the softness that sub 18.5 microns procures. Similar story for cashmere, brands should be transparent and disclose the diameter of the fibres they use.
Durability
There is no contest there. Cashmere is a fragile fibre. It is not as strong as Merino, making it much less durable and more delicate to care for. Cashmere fibres are much shorter than Merino (28-42 mm versus 50-140mm for Merino). The shorter the fibre, the more fragile it is in a knit and the more likely it is to pill (more on this later). This doesn’t mean you should never buy cashmere, but it is a good indication that if you wear knits frequently, cashmere won’t stay looking at its best for long, whereas you stand better chances with Merino. Did we say our Tasmanian superfine Merino is 120mm long? That’s long.
Debunking the Pilling Myth—What is pilling?
Pilling, the bane of knitwear enthusiasts, is often misunderstood. Contrary to popular belief, permanent pilling is not inherent to all knitwear but a result of fibre length, knit density, yarn weight, and fibre diameter.
What is pilling? Pilling is when fibres form small bobbles on the surface of a garment because of friction. Friction means bobbles formation? Not necessarily. Not all fibres are created equal.
By opting for fine yarns and tight-knit structures, you can minimise pilling and ensure long-lasting wear.
The more a yarn is made with short fibres, the more likely it is to pill because short fibres don’t stay in place. They stick out under friction and tangle up.
Therefore, fibre length is the number one factor to reduce the pilling propensity of knitwear. Followed by how dense the knit structure is. A dense knit will be more resilient to friction than loose stitches. The finesse of a yarn also plays an important role. The finer, the better. The more twisted the fibres, the better too, for a strong resilient yarn. Last, all other things being equal, a thicker fibre will pill less. Because all other factors prevail and correspond to high-quality knitwear, you will find that the finest Merino yarns knitted in tight structures are the ones that resist pilling the most. You can see from the figure below how we make optimal choices for Wide Open World knitwear. We don’t leave things to chance; we seek to offer exceptional resistance to pilling so that garments maintain their clean appearance over time, a sign of fine knitwear.
What about cashmere?
There is no contest here too. With a fibre length much shorter than Merino, cashmere is more likely to pill, true to its reputation. If you buy cashmere, make sure it is grade A, has long fibres, and the structure of the knit is dense and tight. If it isn’t, you might quickly find yourself disappointed. Let’s face it, timeless that lasts a season is not a winning formula.
Is pilling a problem?
Pilling is a natural occurrence on all knitwear subjected to friction. However, a high-quality garment will experience minimal pilling, and importantly, once the shorter fibres are gone, pilling should decrease significantly. Unless you're dealing with a yarn containing a high proportion of short fibres, this should hold true. It's worth noting that pills can be easily removed with a pilling comb, particularly on fine knitwear—a practice we recommend after the first year of wear. Additionally, fine garments tend to shed pills naturally through regular wear and washing, unlike their synthetic counterparts, as synthetic fibres are too resilient. If your knits are resembling a tumbleweed invasion, you might find synthetics listed on the care label. Consider transitioning to natural fibres for better pilling management and a more sustainable option. Furthermore, if your knit is crafted with low-quality yarn filled with short fibres, you may find yourself endlessly combing.
Temperature regulation
Both cashmere and Merino provide excellent temperature insulation. If warmth is your primary concern, cashmere takes the lead as it traps more air within its fibres, making it much warmer than Merino. However, for all-round comfort, Merino is a superior choice. Merino wool boasts remarkable moisture-wicking properties, allowing it to absorb and release moisture vapour effectively, thus maintaining a steady and comfortable temperature. Its high breathability also makes it an ideal option for technical active-wear and high-end suits. Who doesn’t want to feel at the top of their game and comfortable during demanding activities or important presentations? Merino has got you covered.
In summary, here’s how you can make your decision:
Choose cashmere if:
- You desire a lofty, fuzzy feeling
- You need exceptional warmth for extremely cold weather
- You don’t mind pilling after a few wears
- You plan to wear your knit infrequently or are willing to replace it often
Opt for superfine Merino if:
- You prefer a next-to-skin solid softness
- You seek the comfort of a fibre that regulates temperature and wicks moisture
- You want a fibre that drapes elegantly without the fuzzy appearance
- You prioritise durability and wish to minimise pilling
From its superior thermal properties to its resistance to pilling, Merino wool reigns supreme in the realm of natural fibres. If you can get your hands on a superfine grade like our Tasmanian superfine Merino, which we turn into an extraordinary yarn, you are guaranteed to enjoy long-lasting satisfaction. You might even have friends asking you what fibre your knits are made from.
What about lambswool?
Did you know that lambswool simply refers to wool obtained from the first shearing of a sheep, typically around 7 months old? Now that we've discussed some key attributes of wool, you might be wondering about the specifics: What type of sheep does it come from? What is its fibre diameter, length, and strength? Surprisingly, it could be any. It is a marketing twist. It's essential to recognise that the age of the sheep isn't the determining factor; rather, it's the breed and, more importantly, the quality of the fibre itself. Factors like fibre diameter, length, and strength play a crucial role in determining the quality of wool, including lambswool. While some lambswool, such as superfine Merino lambswool, can be exceptional, it's essential to understand that the greatness of the wool doesn't stem solely from the age of the sheep. Apologies if we have shattered a myth. Just as one wouldn't purchase a German car without considering the brand and technical aspects, the quality of the wool depends on various factors beyond the age of a sheep.
The Craftsmanship Behind Top-Quality Knitwear
By now you should have an appreciation for what to look for in fibres to make informed decisions. However, craftsmanship plays a crucial role in determining knitwear’s comfort, durability, and overall appearance too. Let's explore what makes good craftsmanship so special and what “made-to-last” really means, a slogan that many brands use, but only a handful can explain.
Construction Methods
Not all knitwear is created equal. It's akin to distinguishing between a mass-market suit and a meticulously crafted, fully canvassed one, or between a mass-produced dress and a bespoke couture piece.
Cut and sew
The majority of knitwear available today is produced using the cut and sew method. This involves cutting rolls of fabric into pattern shapes and then stitching them together. While quick and cost-effective, this method has its drawbacks. Cutting stretched fabric leads to significant variation, and the resulting seams lack the polished look that exudes refinement. You can identify cut and sew seams by their unevenness and lack of smooth curves. Cut and sew seams are not flat, they look like seams on the majority of t-shirts. Additionally, the comfort level doesn't match up to the more intricate method of fully fashioned knitting.
Fully Fashioned
Fully fashioned knitting involves knitting each piece on a machine and then linking them by hand. This meticulous process ensures superior comfort and a well-put-together appearance. The resulting seams become elegant features, elevating the style of the garments. They are flatter and neater than cut and sew seams, providing higher levels of comfort. Moreover, the precision of fully fashioned knitting reduces variation and error compared to cut and sew methods, particularly important for styles requiring precision. Because fully fashioned knitting involves knitting yarn and not cutting fabric, there is little to no waste which adds to its appeal, particularly for luxurious fibres. Hand-linking is a crucial step that demands care and attention, justifying why fully fashioned knitwear is considered the most expensive method.
How to spot the difference?
Irregular, bulky and harsh seams indicate cut and sew construction, while flat transitions are a sign of fully fashioned knitting. When it comes to quality and craftsmanship, the difference is clear.
Wholegarment or seamless
Another method, known as wholegarment or seamless knitting, involves producing knitwear entirely on a machine, akin to seamless tights. While more repeatable than cut and sew, this method has limitations in terms of style and cannot match the sharp, elegant look of fully fashioned garments. Additionally, seamless knitting lacks the structure that seams provide, resulting in an inherent twist in the fabric. It's best suited for casual and loose styles that don't require the sophistication of fully fashioned garments.
At Wide Open World, our knitwear is proudly fully fashioned for styles that embody impeccable detailing and refinement. We believe fine yarns deserve to be elevated into exceptional sartorial pieces, and fully fashioned construction achieves both refined aesthetics and unparalleled comfort. The finest knitwear on the market is fully fashioned for good reasons. It will remain for as long as high fashion exists. Forever.
Tension and Fit
Tension is an aspect often overlooked in garment construction, yet it plays a crucial role in how a garment feels when worn. At Wide Open World we strive to design our styles for that unique feel-good factor.
For instance, men typically appreciate a slight tension around the forearms, while the tension around the collar should offer adequate support for wearing a shirt or going shirtless. Feeling snug around the torso without constriction is essential for comfort and confidence.
For women, preferences vary; some prefer a free-flowing drape around the waist, while others prefer a snug fit. In either case, the high elasticity of Merino wool helps maintain the desired look without feeling constricted, a discomfort often associated with woven fabrics. Have tension off and a sweater might feel shapeless. Not a good feeling. Have it too tight and the yarn wouldn’t flow correctly.
A well-crafted knitwear piece should enhance both comfort and style, from the tension in the sleeves to strategically placed pressure points. Clothing has a significant impact on how we feel and how we present ourselves, making the investment in the right piece invaluable.
“Made to last”. What should it really mean?
In today's market, advertising slogans like "made to last" are thrown around with little substantiation or understanding, much like the term "sustainable".
Raw fibres and yarn
The foundation of high-quality knitwear lies in the quality of its raw materials. Certain fibres, such as Merino wool, are renowned for their strength. Factors such as long fibres and fine yarns contribute significantly to durability. The number of plies in a yarn is also crucial; a single ply yarn won't offer the same robustness as a two-ply yarn. At Wide Open World, we begin with a two-ply yarn, which we ply again during the knitting process to further enhance its strength, resulting in a resilient and exquisite 2x2 yarn. Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to create a yarn, with more plies equating to greater strength for a given fibre.
Craftsmanship
Not every company can genuinely deliver high-quality products. Quality isn't just a product attribute; it's a mindset. Without a commitment to mastering their craft, businesses will struggle to achieve the level of quality that sets them apart in the marketplace. Knitting is no exception. It demands an understanding of each yarn, precision in machinery calibration to achieve optimal tension, and continuous testing and refinement. This level of dedication differs significantly from mass production.
One unmistakable indicator of superior craftsmanship is the seams in a piece of knitwear. The best knitters possess this mindset; they don't compromise on quality. Seams are elevated from purely functional to works of art, the signature of a skilled artisan. Because photographs are worth a thousand words, we let the below photos do the talking. The first one is the shoulder seam viewed from outside. The second, is the same one viewed from inside. Neat.
Versatility and Elegance
Lastly, we believe in enhancing wardrobes with timeless styles. While impulse buying for the latest trend may offer temporary satisfaction, beautiful and timeless designs endure the test of time. In today's fast-paced world, effortless and versatile styling brings a well-deserved feeling of calm and rest. At Wide Open World, we understand the importance of simplicity amidst chaos. Our meticulously crafted garments offer both comfort and sophistication, allowing you to go through each day feeling good. We take pride in curating top-of-the-line garments from our exclusive Tasmanian superfine merino wool, ensuring both quality and integrity in every stitch.
Wrapping up with stewardship considerations
Our passion for well-crafted knitwear transpires in our products however we shouldn’t forget that fibres start with land. And when you start with land, you have the responsibility to maintain a balance with the environment.
Excessive Cashmere production is responsible for desertification and land degradation in Mongolia. Additionally, the sourcing of this fibre often involves significant animal welfare issues. Contrary to common belief, the reality of cashmere production entails practices that are often far from gentle, with some goats subjected to harsh conditions, especially when their hair is collected.
Merino wool, while favoured for its quality as explained, is not immune from similar issues either. Conversion of natural habitat to create room for pastures puts biodiversity under pressure and troubling animal welfare issues also exist in places. The expansion of pastures for sheep farming can lead to habitat destruction and biodiversity loss, alongside welfare concerns for the animals involved. Unfortunately, the complexities of modern supply chains often obscure these issues, allowing for unethical practices to persist unnoticed.
At Wide Open World, we prioritise environmental stewardship as a fundamental principle. While we value the benefits of sustainable farming, we firmly believe that animal welfare must always be at the forefront of our considerations. Consumers should always seek out products that adhere to responsible standards. However, it is equally important for producers and their staff to maintain a steadfast commitment to upholding the right values when it comes to handling animals. By investing in our high-quality, sustainable knitwear, you not only enhance your wardrobe but also demonstrate your commitment to ethical, responsible, and eco-conscious fashion choices. Join us in advocating for a more compassionate and environmentally friendly approach to fashion. Stay tuned for further insights in our upcoming posts.
Wishing you happy, conscious, and informed buying.
