Pilling Explained: Why It Happens & How to Prevent It

A well-crafted sweater represents an investment in quality rather than a fleeting seasonal purchase. Yet many knitwear enthusiasts find themselves confronted with tiny bobbles—known as pilling—appearing on their cherished garments.

This phenomenon raises an important question: does pilling indicate inferior quality, or is it simply inevitable?

This guide demystifies the science of pilling.

Pilling occurs when short or weak fibres migrate to the fabric surface and entangle due to friction. Understanding this process requires examining the fundamental structure of yarn—fibres twisted together into continuous strands, often further strengthened through plying. When shorter fibres break free from this structure, pilling results. However, not all knitwear exhibits equal susceptibility to this phenomenon.

The science behind pilling follows precise principles. While most market-available knitwear isn't "engineered" to exacting specifications, we've taken a technical approach to optimising our garments. Here, we share the science of pilling as part of our commitment to transparency and industry advancement.

A garment's propensity to pill depends on five factors, presented in order of significance:

• Fibre Length: Longer fibres (such as hand-selected superfine merino) demonstrate superior resistance to pilling compared to shorter fibres (like cashmere) or mixed-content fibres that dominate the market.
• Knit Structure/Density: Tightly constructed knits reduce inter-fibre movement, significantly decreasing pilling tendency.
• Yarn Weight: Finer yarns pill less, as their fibres typically maintain tighter alignment through superior yarn twist.
• Yarn Twist: Well-twisted yarns demonstrate enhanced cohesion, offering improved resistance to friction.
• Fibre Diameter: While finer fibres provide enhanced softness, they may exhibit increased pilling unless properly spun, and unless properly knitted.

An additional consideration merits attention: fibre type.

• Fibre Type: Natural fibres generally demonstrate superior performance regarding pilling. Counterintuitively, this results from synthetic fibres' inherent strength—they form pills that resist detachment. With fine natural knitwear such as cashmere or merino, pills detach naturally and easily, restoring a clean, appealing texture. The visual aspect proves significant; synthetics produce resilient, unsightly pills while natural fibres create delicate pills that either shed naturally or respond readily to gentle removal.

The below infographic shows the factors visually along side the attributes of our Tasmanian superfine Merino garments.

Choosing the Right Knitwear

• Select knitwear composed exclusively of natural fibres, avoiding blended compositions.
• Prioritise longer fibres (such as our Tasmanian superfine merino), which explains cashmere's greater pilling tendency due to its substantially shorter fibres.
• Opt for dense, methodically constructed knits, particularly when investing in cashmere.
• For everyday wear, avoid loosely spun, fluffy yarns that sacrifice durability for initial softness.
• Examine seam construction—fully fashioned knitwear typically indicates attention to detail throughout production.
  

Caring for Your Knitwear

• Launder with cold/lukewarm water and gentle, wool-specific detergents that preserve fibre integrity.
• Employ a mesh laundry bag during washing to minimise friction against other garments.
• Turn garments inside out before washing to protect the visible surface from unnecessary friction.
• Avoid fabric softeners entirely, as they compromise fibre strength and integrity over time.
• Remove pills gently using a dedicated knitwear comb, applying minimal pressure to avoid damaging the fabric structure.
• Allow garments to dry flat on a towel rather than hanging, which can distort the knit structure.
• Store folded rather than hung to maintain the garment's intended shape and prevent stretching.

Pilling represents a natural occurrence in all knitwear subjected to friction. However, superior garments exhibit minimal pilling, and importantly, once the shorter fibres have been shed, pilling should diminish significantly. This holds true unless the yarn contains an exceptionally high proportion of short fibres.

Worth noting is that pills can be efficiently removed with a specialised comb, particularly on fine knitwear. Additionally, quality garments naturally shed pills through regular wear and washing—unlike synthetic alternatives where excessive fibre strength prevents this beneficial process. If your knitwear resembles a rapidly expanding collection of fibre balls, examine the care label for synthetic content. Consider transitioning to natural fibres for superior pilling management and enhanced sustainability.

The essence of pilling resistance lies in selecting meticulously sourced materials combined with superior construction techniques, ensuring your knitwear maintains its impeccable appearance for years to come.

At Wide Open World, our design philosophy creates knitwear with inherent pilling resistance, prioritising longevity and craftsmanship as fundamental expressions of true luxury.